We start tomorrow to Canada for a 6 weeks-trip. Some Big Walls and climbing. JUHUUUUUUUU!
Stay tuned for some crazy pictures and clips
Sonntag, 1. August 2010
3 for the road! Enjoy!!!!
look at this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rnG9Lmr1Owk&playnext=1&videos=O6t7dfIedFE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PQejWvytt1c&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MV8lc1Jrsb0&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rnG9Lmr1Owk&playnext=1&videos=O6t7dfIedFE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PQejWvytt1c&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MV8lc1Jrsb0&feature=related
Mittwoch, 21. Juli 2010
Freitag, 14. Mai 2010
Old is the new young...
About 20 years ago I placed the first bolts in the yellow wall on the very left end of "Afrika-Wand" in Kochel. What was forgotten, became attractive again. First solution seemed to be a left entrance-toprope-route. I'm trying the full/direct version now. Here's a short clip of a "working day" in "No means No":
Samstag, 8. Mai 2010
Samstag, 24. April 2010
Mittwoch, 21. April 2010
Unfinished Business
Not so new, but anyway good news for me:
I used the newgained-power to get down unfinished business in Kochel last week. On the day I "received" my injury Philipp and me were working on a left-sit-start-project to the "Shaka Zulu" at the Afrika-Wand, that we gave the name "Rorschach". Phillip came close to it, doing a "halfbaked" version.
After the rest I already used the moves to gain strength again, but the attempts were always disabled by my foot. When I came back from Portugal it seemed that the "old-body" was working again, so I managed to complete "Rorschach" and the "Shaka Khan"-Sit-Start (although not with the topout this time) last week. As a gift I also repeated Philipps testpiece "Baby Monsta". All the creations are "located" in the "8th" font boulder grade.
It's getting warmer now, so it's time for some rope-climbing - jipiiieeeee!
I used the newgained-power to get down unfinished business in Kochel last week. On the day I "received" my injury Philipp and me were working on a left-sit-start-project to the "Shaka Zulu" at the Afrika-Wand, that we gave the name "Rorschach". Phillip came close to it, doing a "halfbaked" version.
After the rest I already used the moves to gain strength again, but the attempts were always disabled by my foot. When I came back from Portugal it seemed that the "old-body" was working again, so I managed to complete "Rorschach" and the "Shaka Khan"-Sit-Start (although not with the topout this time) last week. As a gift I also repeated Philipps testpiece "Baby Monsta". All the creations are "located" in the "8th" font boulder grade.
It's getting warmer now, so it's time for some rope-climbing - jipiiieeeee!
Labels:
boulder,
Klettern,
Kochel,
Toni Lamprecht
Montag, 19. April 2010
More good things to say about Sintra
To say it in a few words: Portugal/Sintra was the place to go on Easter! Friendly people, nice weather, nice landscape, nice rock, nice projects and even more nice... . Look at the pictures (by Margit Memminger) and you'll understand!
After our trip to Sagrez in the south of Portugal around Christmas I got an invitation by local climber Fred da Silva to Lisboa.
After he sent me some pictures I was persuaded! The rock looked like a mixture between Joshua Tree and Black Mountains. And we were not dissapointed!
The first day we got introduced into the Lisboa boulder-scene, which welcomed us with open arms and minds. They all got not tired while showing us all their juveniles. Especially Fred turned out to be the perfect guide, because he totally knew, what was good for us (city, beach, climbs).
The first week we checked out a lot of places, climbed with locals and with a big group of spanish strongmen and I got back into serious bouldering after my injury and a two month rest. Soon motivated by the scene and the rock I did even a few new lines (Zagalot, Nailbiter) in the upper "7th"-range! While "Zagalot" (an old project) turned out to be a power-full-body-extension-compression boulder (check out the video below on this blog), the "Nailbiter" occured to be a crazy jump with a nerv-wrecking swing-control. Formally tried by Nico Favresse with a static method I soon realized that my solution would be the jump:
To resume the trip is easy: We're having a very good time, being part of a still virgin bouldering community (that will grow fast), enjoying nice restdays on the beach and in the streets of Lisboa. And when we had to leave, it felt the best! And I found a good, hard line on the last day:
I'm shure that it won't be the last time, that I'll visit "Sintra" and its beautifull rocks.
"Kalashnikov"
"Solaris"
After he sent me some pictures I was persuaded! The rock looked like a mixture between Joshua Tree and Black Mountains. And we were not dissapointed!
"Mito", a real beauty!
... Margit, cruising at the Sector Mekka
The first week we checked out a lot of places, climbed with locals and with a big group of spanish strongmen and I got back into serious bouldering after my injury and a two month rest. Soon motivated by the scene and the rock I did even a few new lines (Zagalot, Nailbiter) in the upper "7th"-range! While "Zagalot" (an old project) turned out to be a power-full-body-extension-compression boulder (check out the video below on this blog), the "Nailbiter" occured to be a crazy jump with a nerv-wrecking swing-control. Formally tried by Nico Favresse with a static method I soon realized that my solution would be the jump:
"Nailbiter"
To resume the trip is easy: We're having a very good time, being part of a still virgin bouldering community (that will grow fast), enjoying nice restdays on the beach and in the streets of Lisboa. And when we had to leave, it felt the best! And I found a good, hard line on the last day:
"Gorillas in the bruma"
... waiting for an ascent...
I'm shure that it won't be the last time, that I'll visit "Sintra" and its beautifull rocks.
Donnerstag, 15. April 2010
Bouldering in Sintra and a nice comeback!
Our trip to Portugal was amazing: friendly people, nice weather, nice landscape, nice rock, nice projects and a foot that can stand hard bouldering again!
The first week we checked out a lot of places and I got back into serious bouldering after my injury and did even a few new lines (Zegalot, Nailbiter) in the "7th"-range!
"Nailbiter" - a crazy jump that cost me a lot of skin...hahaha!
Back in Kochel I took advantage of the cold temperatures and the power I gained on the granit and solved an old outstanding project: "Rorschach", somewhere up the 8th bouldering grade.
Very pleasent!
More infos about Portugal will follow soon with more pictures (c by Margit Memminger) and Videos...
"Kalashnikov"
Sonntag, 14. März 2010
Back in the game
Last week I had my first serious bouldering session since 6 weeks. My injury seems to be no delay anymore. Worked on "Watchman" / "Rorschach", a powerfull sitstart, that avoids jumping down. One move more to go... stay tuned!!!
Donnerstag, 11. Februar 2010
Samstag, 30. Januar 2010
Broken Syndesmose
Bad Luck! While returning to the Highball-Project I was shooting over the target (über das Ziel hinausschießen...). Jumped from the top (last move) and got a bad injury. Now I have time for editing the video. So stay tuned for some nice footage. For the first - here are some pictures...
Donnerstag, 21. Januar 2010
Mittwoch, 6. Januar 2010
Portugal
Back from Portugal! Despite some rain and stormy weather we had a few nice days on the beach with some bouldering and poor surf attempts. Will go back there for shure. Check out the vid of a nice roof boulder, which is basically a route now, due to some huge sand movements. Can't beat the water! So here's "Piri Piri":
Labels:
climbing,
Klettern,
Piri Piri,
Portugal,
sturz,
Toni Lamprecht,
Toni Lamprecht Boulder,
urlaub
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