Samstag, 24. April 2010

Mittwoch, 21. April 2010

Unfinished Business

Not so new, but anyway good news for me:
I used the newgained-power to get down unfinished business in Kochel last week. On the day I "received" my injury Philipp and me were working on a left-sit-start-project to the "Shaka Zulu" at the Afrika-Wand, that we gave the name "Rorschach". Phillip came close to it, doing a "halfbaked" version.

After the rest I already used the moves to gain strength again, but the attempts were always disabled by my foot. When I came back from Portugal it seemed that the "old-body" was working again, so I managed to complete "Rorschach" and the "Shaka Khan"-Sit-Start (although not with the topout this time) last week. As a gift I also repeated Philipps testpiece "Baby Monsta". All the creations are "located" in the "8th" font boulder grade.

It's getting warmer now, so it's time for some rope-climbing - jipiiieeeee!

Montag, 19. April 2010

More good things to say about Sintra

To say it in a few words: Portugal/Sintra was the place to go on Easter! Friendly people, nice weather, nice landscape, nice rock, nice projects and even more nice... . Look at the pictures (by Margit Memminger) and you'll understand!


After our trip to Sagrez in the south of Portugal around Christmas I got an invitation by local climber Fred da Silva to Lisboa.

After he sent me some pictures I was persuaded! The rock looked like a mixture between Joshua Tree and Black Mountains. And we were not dissapointed!

The first day we got introduced into the Lisboa boulder-scene, which welcomed us with open arms and minds. They all got not tired while showing us all their juveniles. Especially Fred turned out to be the perfect guide, because he totally knew, what was good for us (city, beach, climbs).

"Mito", a real beauty!
... Margit, cruising at the Sector Mekka

The first week we checked out a lot of places, climbed with locals and with a big group of spanish strongmen and I got back into serious bouldering after my injury and a two month rest. Soon motivated by the scene and the rock I did even a few new lines (Zagalot, Nailbiter) in the upper "7th"-range! While "Zagalot" (an old project) turned out to be a power-full-body-extension-compression boulder (check out the video below on this blog), the "Nailbiter" occured to be a crazy jump with a nerv-wrecking swing-control. Formally tried by Nico Favresse with a static method I soon realized that my solution would be the jump:


To resume the trip is easy: We're having a very good time, being part of a still virgin bouldering community (that will grow fast), enjoying nice restdays on the beach and in the streets of Lisboa. And when we had to leave, it felt the best! And I found a good, hard line on the last day:

"Gorillas in the bruma"
... waiting for an ascent...

I'm shure that it won't be the last time, that I'll visit "Sintra" and its beautifull rocks.

Donnerstag, 15. April 2010

Bouldering in Sintra, part I

Bouldering in Sintra and a nice comeback!

Our trip to Portugal was amazing: friendly people, nice weather, nice landscape, nice rock, nice projects and a foot that can stand hard bouldering again!

The first week we checked out a lot of places and I got back into serious bouldering after my injury and did even a few new lines (Zegalot, Nailbiter) in the "7th"-range!

"Nailbiter" - a crazy jump that cost me a lot of skin...hahaha!

Back in Kochel I took advantage of the cold temperatures and the power I gained on the granit and solved an old outstanding project: "Rorschach", somewhere up the 8th bouldering grade.
Very pleasent!

More infos about Portugal will follow soon with more pictures (c by Margit Memminger) and Videos...